LANDSCAPING
A lawn that thrives here is built under the surface. Rocky native ground, fast drainage, and 90 degree stretches mean soil prep and water planning matter more than the grass you roll out on top. We handle both, then hand you a lawn with a plan to keep it.
Most valley lots are sand, cobble, or compacted construction fill, none of which holds moisture or nutrients. We strip debris, rip or till the top layer, and blend in compost and topsoil so roots have something to grow into instead of hitting hardpan two inches down.
Grading is set to drain away from the house and away from patios, with the finish elevation dropped so sod sits flush with walks and driveways rather than an inch proud of them.
Sod gives you a finished lawn the day it goes down and holds soil on slopes immediately, which matters if you are selling, hosting, or dealing with erosion. Seed lets you match a specific blend, but it needs weeks of consistent moisture, which is hard to count on in July.
We install cool-season blends suited to our summers and our winters, usually a tall fescue or fescue-bluegrass mix that handles heat and traffic better than bluegrass alone.
New sod roots or fails in the first month. It needs light, frequent water at the start, then longer and less frequent cycles as roots reach down. We set the irrigation schedule before we leave and write it down for you.
Where there is no system yet, we tell you honestly what hose and sprinkler coverage it will take, and whether the season you are in is realistic for the install at all.
Clean edges against beds, walks, and driveways are cut in at install, and we can set steel or paver edging so the line holds. The first mow comes once the sod knits down, at a height that shades the crown instead of scalping it.
Fertilizer timing, mowing height, and irrigation adjustments through the season are part of the handoff conversation. If you would rather not manage it, we can pick that up as ongoing maintenance.
FAQ
